1977 Vespa Special 90, PTS, small frame, scooter restoration project (how to paint or restore)

The first appearance 

This is a tired scooter !

This is my first time restoring a vespa/scooter !

and i am not pro !

By the look of its condition, there is only one choice : dismantling (at once !)

Vespa isn’t like other vehicle, it is a lot more easier to disassemble the parts than others.

While the dismantling process proceed, a concept (of restoration) has to be made.

The concept

There are so many gorgeous restored/unrestored vintage vespa out there ! 

Many of them are restored to its original, from humble to glamorous scoot. In opposite, ‘wild’ modification is other option for some guys. 

As a beginner, a ’cool’ modification is an option (indeed), nor fully original, neither ‘wild’ modification.

In other words : my vespa (i’d rather say vespa than scoot) should be a ‘friendly/handy’ vespa. 

Hence, modest modification is a must !

Being an old timer/young timer, vintage racing is part of my concern and give much influence to my point of view of designing or restoring a thing (as you may see in this blog).

By that, i will restore my vespa as represent of my ‘fondness’ to the vintage racing.

But what vintage racing (decal) is should be chosen ?

Hm……….?! 

I am a vintage volkswagen enthusiast. I certainly would choose something related with vintage volkswagen.

As we already known (assuming), there are many of vintage performance (for volkswagen), but nothing has tempted me other than vintage OETTINGER OKRASA along with JUDSON SUPERCHARGED.

But why OETTINGER OKRASA ? 

The reasons (in my point of view) :

1. The logo is well appropriate to my vespa body (easily adjusted without prejudice to its perfection)

2. The fonts are obvious and timeless design

3. Easily to be reproduced/simple design (i plan to do painting for the decals) 

4. The product was available in the 70s - 80s as my vespa was produced.

The result of the design (mixed by me) to be implemented on my 1977 vespa special 90

The fonts : obvious and timeless

The logo : (speechless)  

The red color : performance 

The checker flag : vintage racing

The blue color : original color of my vespa

(a simple thought from a peasant guy)

note :

I am going to make this vespa as a delivery vehicle, with a bit modification to the parts, such as :

replacing the rear saddle with luggage, repositioning the spare wheel position, or even changing the driver saddle design, etc.

the replacement should be differs from generally (hopefully) !

and as always, i’ll pay attention to the details !

The body

Stripped off the paint (by using paint remover or metal brush are recommended. using bursts [of fire] for certain spots and for short time only)

Clean the dirt before stripping off the paint (or you’re gonna get the dirt on your face !)

The engine compartment  

Before

First thing first, (i am) starting from the hardest part !

After all the paint was stripped, the defects/damages will revealed.

1. engine compartment : severely dented (flat) on top.

2. ribbed edge of the shield and floor pan/deck : (mostly) damaged.

3. shield : wavy surface.

4. floor pan : rotten/porous reinforcement, rough welding.

The rest aren’t that significant !

The lid/hood also has several dents on the surface and on the grill as well.

The actual position of the lid to the engine bay

(the lid is already restored before it use as a guidance)

After

It’s a bit tricky to reshape the curvature corner of the engine compartment.

First, marking the surface (by following existing/non damage angle line) as a guidance.

Use a big rubber hammer (the appropriate size the more impact as result) then refined it with special tools to reshape the curvatur corner (such as : blunt chisel, hammer, etc.) 

The floor pan/deck and shield 

Before

Rough conditions of the floor pan/deck

The most difficult thing is to reshape/refine the ribbed edge (FYIO : i am not pro. !)

Special tools are required (modified from ordinary tools/T-shape tool’s handle or similar with). 

Several tapping, hammering, an awkward position, etc.  has been done to reshape the ribbed edges, shield and the deck. 

After

Finally, the body is ready to be welded (rough finished).

Smooth sanding/grinding (if needed) on certain surface. To ease unnecessary thickness of putty.

Removed unwanted welded spot for better shape/to reshape

(imagery) Spare wheel position as on super sprint (with my own bracket design)

Not bad (…eh ?), as a beginner :)

The front fender 

Before

So pity !

The shape is (so) weird and rub against the shield ! It’s covered with thick putty and some weird (welded) plates to cover the decay (without adjusting and grinding). 

Before and After

Reshape first !

Precise shape = precise patch = precise welding ! 

Detailing  

As the reshaping (the damage) already done, smoothing process begins.

First, applying primary base paint/filler/epoxy merely to protect the surface/bare metal from rust (do not expose unprotect/sanded metal sheet more than 24 hours)

Moreover, easier to rectify the unseen defects on the surface. Then, straightening subtle defects, repeatedly.

The refining (part 1)

Locate and mark the defects/damages.

I am using primary base paint/filler to fill in the subtle defects, or by putty for severe damages, then sanded  as thin and smooth as possible.  

And all of these aren’t final, 'til all defects has been repaired (as many as you can)

Impressed thin plates and “thin” sound when tapped is a must

"i haven’t knowledge, i’ll keep on learning”

"i haven’t skills, i’ll keep on trying”

"at least i still have curiosity"

How to paint and rendering

Based on my experience (may or may not correct)

Step 1. Primary base paint

(starting from bare metal/plates)

1. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # observed the damages/defects

2. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 *

3. Repair the severe damage with putty

4. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible

5. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture)# as straightening/fill in the subtle defects

6. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible

7. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on a certain spots

8. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 320 - no. 600 * as thin and even as possible

9. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for coloring.

Step 2.a.  for Solid paint

(starting from primary base paint and assuming the surface is already flat/even)

1. Apply base color e.g. blue/1st layer (thick mixture) # 

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

3.  Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) #  or putty (on the certain spots) as straightening/fill in the subtle defects 

4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

5. Apply the blue color/2nd layer (rather dilute mixture) #  assuming there are no defects/is perfect

6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 * 

7. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for finishing (jump to Step 4.b).

Step 2.b. for Candy paint

(starting from primary base paint and assuming the surface is already flat/even)

2.b.1. Light silver (as a basis for candy paint)

1. Apply the light silver/1st layer (thick mixture) #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

3. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) #  or putty as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on the certain spots (acceptable)

4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

5. Apply the light silver/2nd layer (rather dilute mixture) #  assuming there are no defects/is perfect

6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 * 

7. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection (if needed). 

8. Ready for applying a candy paint 

9. Assuming do rendering first before candy paint (jump to Step 3) 

10. Cover up the finished decal, then (jump to Step 2.b.2), after that (jump to Step 4.a), finished

2.b.2. Candy paint (starting from light silver paint as basis for candy paint)

1. Apply a candy paint/1st layer (rather dilute mixture) # 

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000

3. Apply a candy paint/2nd layer (more dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects

4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000

5. Ready for final stage/finishing

6. Assuming there is no decal (jump to Step 4.b), finished

Step 3.  Rendering the decal

(assuming starting from finish color e.g. candy paint and clear coat has not been applied)

1. Sanding the allocation area of the decal (black as a base of the white lines)

2. Form the outline of black decal. make sure the proportion and the size of the decal is precise  ***

3. Apply an adhesive tape **** by follow the out side shape of the (black) decal

4. Cover up the fuel tank (excl. area to be painted) with non sticky materials (e.g. paper, plastic, etc.)

5. Apply the black color (rather dilute mixture) #

6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 * assuming there are no defects **

7. Form the outline of the white lines decal, make sure the proportion and size is correct **

8. Apply an adhesive tape **** by following the out side shape of the white lines

9. Apply the white color (rather dilute mixture) # by using a proper spray gun e.g. an airbrush 

10. Repeated to its perfection (straight and smooth lines)

Step 4.a. Finishing glossy looks with certain (spot) polishing

(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)

(the decal should be covered before applying the last layer of candy paint)

(more difficult and complicated but likely to be implemented)

1. Apply a candy paint/3rd/final layer (more dilute mixture)  #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 * and polishing (only) on the intersection of both layer 

3. Finish

Step 4.b. Finishing glossy looks with clear coat and without polishing

(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)

(a lot more easier than Step 4.a)

1. Apply a clear coat/1st layer (rather dilute mixture)  #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 *

3. Apply a clear coat/2nd layer (more dilute mixture)  #

4. Finish

note :

Persistence sanding is the basic requirement to obtain good result

Impressed thin plates and “thin” sound when tapped is a must

* sandpaper density may vary and not necessarily the same as mentioned above

# mixture is depending on the needs. no definite ratio to be given as a reference

** unacceptable error, due to the character of candy paint. the thicker the layer, the darker the result

*** cannot be undo or reshape the decal

**** not too sticky, easily to bent/deflected, e.g. negative film tape, etc. 

(my) Spraying technique

I am using small size spray gun (K3) which aim to facilitate the movement, also to ease the fatigue

and i prefer the one with air pressure regulator below the handle (easily to adjust the air pressure while in use).

1. Distance (approximate +/- 30 cm, may vary), depend on

a. mixture

b. air pressure, intense of air pressure for long distance, or in reverse 

c. type of surface e.g. rounded, flat, wavy, wide, etc.

d. spraying angle, on which part spraying is intended e.g. corners/joints of the subframe, hidden surface, etc.

2. Air pressure (in scale of 1 − 100 %) : not more than 50 % of its capacity, depend on :

a. mixture

b. spraying angle

c. surface

3. Miscellaneous

a. Protect yourself /safety first, by using a mask to avoid a toxic gas, spray in an open room and use a fan if needed

b. Spraying should be steered clear of the finished area/spray forward

c. For a curved/circle/cylinder surface, air pressure should be regulated into medium (air) pressure, 25% up to 35 % (quarter of 100% its capacity)

d. Start from the most difficult/hidden area (spotted area), and (the spray) outlet should be set into round shape/focused rather than overspread

e. Let the surface totally dry, then continue with the rest

f. Do sanding evenly (and do not avoid the hidden/difficult surface). 

if there is a shiny (even small or spotted) area means the surface still uneven (these will resulted a wavy, porous looks). repeat the sanding ’till the shiny area were vanished. 

g. Repeated to its perfection 

h. To prevent the result of being soggy :

h.1. (thick mixture) primary base/paint : hardener : thinner = 100 : up to 20 : up to 30 (approximate) 

h.2. Usage of Polyurethane material for primary base, paint, hardener or thinner is better (hard and durable). Some times, mixing of primary base with non PU thinner is allowed for fast dry as result

h.3.  Do not spray while it rain, night, or in a dark room, due to polyurethane character of slow dry at room temperature (assuming painting in an open space without proper equipment/DIY)

h.4. Do not dry up direct to the sun light, a warm and windy room it’s sufficient (dry evenly)

h.5. Each layer have to be awaited ’till totally dry 

That’s all folks,

and have a nice try 

All the ‘story’ above based on my experience, may or may not correct 

or at least you may learn from my mistake

to be continued ……...

see my other finished/on going restoration project :
1975 Honda CB 125 Old Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Project (Candy Ruby Red R4C)
1973 Honda CB 100 mk 1 (Candy Blue Green PB-2C-S)(on going restoration project)
1973 Honda CB 125 (candy blue green PB 2C S) vintage japanese motorcycle restoration project
1973 Honda CB 100 mk 1 Fuel Tank Rendering (Candy Blue Green PB-2C-S)
Honda Paint/Color Codes
1977 Vespa Special 90, PTS, small frame, scooter restoration project
1967 Vespa VBC 150 restoration project
1951 Condor A 580 vintage heritage classic motorcycle restoration project