property of & restored by saka matra
this is (my) first time of restoring a vintage motorcycle, and i am not pro !
(i don’t know neither spraying nor mixing a paint)
i meant : every body can do !
what we need is : a will !
and the rest we can learn while doing (believe me)
so, why don’t you start your own !
i have no knowledge, i’ll keep on learning
i have no skills, i’ll keep on trying
at least i still have curiosity
How to paint and rendering
Based on my experience (may or may not correct)
Step 1. Primary base paint
(starting from bare metal/plates)
1. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # observed the damages/defects
2. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 *
3. Repair the severe damage with putty
4. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible
5. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture)# as straightening/fill in the subtle defects
6. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible
7. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on a certain spots
8. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 320 - no. 600 * as thin and even as possible
9. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for coloring.
Step 2.a. for Solid paint
(starting from primary base paint and assuming the surface is already flat/even)
1. Apply base color e.g. blue/1st layer (thick mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
3. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # or putty (on the certain spots) as straightening/fill in the subtle defects
4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
5. Apply the blue color/2nd layer (rather dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects/is perfect
6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
7. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for finishing (jump to Step 4.b).
Step 2.b. for Candy paint
(starting from primary base paint and assuming the surface is already flat/even)
2.b.1. Light silver (as a basis for candy paint)
1. Apply the light silver/1st layer (thick mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
3. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # or putty as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on the certain spots (acceptable)
4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
5. Apply the light silver/2nd layer (rather dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects/is perfect
6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
7. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection (if needed).
8. Ready for applying a candy paint
9. Assuming do rendering first before candy paint (jump to Step 3)
10. Cover up the finished decal, then (jump to Step 2.b.2), after that (jump to Step 4.a), finished
2.b.2. Candy paint (starting from light silver paint as basis for candy paint)
1. Apply a candy paint/1st layer (rather dilute mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000
3. Apply a candy paint/2nd layer (more dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects
4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000
5. Ready for final stage/finishing
6. Assuming there is no decal (jump to Step 4.b), finished
Step 3. Rendering the decal
(assuming starting from finish color e.g. candy paint and clear coat has not been applied)
1. Sanding the allocation area of the decal (black as a base of the white lines)
2. Form the outline of black decal. make sure the proportion and the size of the decal is precise ***
3. Apply an adhesive tape **** by follow the out side shape of the (black) decal
4. Cover up the fuel tank (excl. area to be painted) with non sticky materials (e.g. paper, plastic, etc.)
5. Apply the black color (rather dilute mixture) #
6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 * assuming there are no defects **
7. Form the outline of the white lines decal, make sure the proportion and size is correct **
8. Apply an adhesive tape **** by following the out side shape of the white lines
9. Apply the white color (rather dilute mixture) # by using a proper spray gun e.g. an airbrush
10. Repeated to its perfection (straight and smooth lines)
Step 4.a. Finishing glossy looks with certain (spot) polishing
(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)
(the decal should be covered before applying the last layer of candy paint)
(more difficult and complicated but likely to be implemented)
1. Apply a candy paint/3rd/final layer (more dilute mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 * and polishing (only) on the intersection of both layer
3. Finish
Step 4.b. Finishing glossy looks with clear coat and without polishing
(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)
(a lot more easier than Step 4.a)
1. Apply a clear coat/1st layer (rather dilute mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 *
3. Apply a clear coat/2nd layer (more dilute mixture) #
4. Finish
note :
Persistence sanding is the basic requirement to obtain good result
Impressed thin plates and “thin” sound when tapped is a must
* sandpaper density may vary and not necessarily the same as mentioned above
# mixture is depending on the needs. no definite ratio to be given as a reference
** unacceptable error, due to the character of candy paint. the thicker the layer, the darker the result
*** cannot be undo or reshape the decal
**** not too sticky, easily to bent/deflected, e.g. negative film tape, etc.
(my) Spraying technique
I am using small size spray gun (K3) which aim to facilitate the movement, also to ease the fatigue
and i prefer the one with air pressure regulator below the handle (easily to adjust the air pressure while in use).
1. Distance (approximate +/- 30 cm, may vary), depend on
a. mixture
b. air pressure, intense of air pressure for long distance, or in reverse
c. type of surface e.g. rounded, flat, wavy, wide, etc.
d. spraying angle, on which part spraying is intended e.g. corners/joints of the subframe, hidden surface, etc.
2. Air pressure (in scale of 1 − 100 %) : not more than 50 % of its capacity, depend on :
a. mixture
b. spraying angle
c. surface
3. Miscellaneous
a. Protect yourself /safety first, by using a mask to avoid a toxic gas, spray in an open room and use a fan if needed
b. Spraying should be steered clear of the finished area/spray forward
c. For a curved/circle/cylinder surface, air pressure should be regulated into medium (air) pressure,
25% up to 35% (quarter of 100% its capacity)
d. Start from the most difficult/hidden area (spotted area), and (the spray) outlet should be set into round shape/focused rather than overspread
e. Let the surface totally dry, then continue with the rest
f. Do sanding evenly (and do not avoid the hidden/difficult surface).
if there is a shiny (even small or spotted) area means the surface still uneven (these will resulted a wavy, porous looks). repeat the sanding ’till the shiny area were vanished.
g. Repeated to its perfection
h. To prevent the result of being soggy :
h.1. (thick mixture) primary base/paint : hardener : thinner = 100 : up to 20 : up to 30 (approximate)
h.2. Usage of Polyurethane material for primary base, paint, hardener or thinner is better (hard and durable). Some times, mixing of primary base with non PU thinner is allowed for fast dry as result
h.3. Do not spray while it rain, night, or in a dark room, due to polyurethane character of slow dry at room temperature (assuming painting in an open space without proper equipment/DIY)
h.4. Do not dry up direct to the sun light, a warm and windy room it’s sufficient (dry evenly)
h.5. Each layer have to be awaited ’till totally dry
That’s all folks,
and have a nice try
All the ‘story’ above based on my experience, may or may not correct
or at least you may learn from my mistake
