classic, vintage motorcycle, scooter restoration project (Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Vespa, Condor): April 2011

the story behind

Prologue
It all started from a curiosity,
Restoration (paint) is the same as painting on canvas for me, and as a painting object, the detail (neither the painting result, nor all the spare parts) should be taken into account accurately. That is what i called : an art
At the beginning, i did to my bike as an experimental material (1975 Honda CB 125, no guts no glory), furthermore are diverse (depending on what is being favored, as you may see in this blog). No time limit was given, merely for my own pleasure at leisure (surely, i am not a professional restorer).

note :
Personally, i prefer the worst/rough condition of the objects (rather than a good looking one). These will gives much inhale at the beginning (challenge, yet low cost) and ‘extra' exhale at the last.
Besides that, this is to prove the extent of our ability in terms of restoration.
What about you ?

i have no knowledge, i’ll keep on learning
i have no skills, i’ll keep on trying
at least i still have curiosity

The Story Behind
(mainly for my japanese bikes only)

when there is a will, there are ways

better late than never

i did proved to my self those phrases

it was started when my buddy told me “it was too late” to start the project ! (many of its parts are already becoming collector items or expensive/exclusive things)

i’ll proved to him the true meaning of spirit

and i did (LOL)

but, the story behind it wasn’t smooth as it should be

first thing first, i state the concept :

the bike should back to its hey day as fresh from the dealer

these consequences using NOS parts is a must !

no time limit was given to the project (more or less 2 years to complete the project, due to difficulty of NOS parts available nowadays)

the only parts remains in use are the frame & crank case (with identification numbers), fuel tank (unbelievable price !), the rest of it : throw it away ! (donated) (this bike formerly in a very bad shape, with mixed of parts from other bikes ! From fenders, fuel tank, saddle, etc.)

hunting/searching/finding/trading NOS parts are the challenging part of this project ! (to get the lowest prices as possible !)

from authorized dealers to neglected small garage stations

from shinning parts to rubber parts

from the big parts to tiny parts

all are NOS ! yes New Old Stock ! or Nasty Old Shit ?

as you can see in this blog

while the hunting sessions begins, the body works was established

paint stripping was the first jobs, and this is one of the most pain staking job of all after that sanding, spraying and so on

detailing the fuel tank is tempting and challenging me

‘cause no pattern as guidance for me, just pic from the web

hence, i have to make sure (trial and error) the pattern is correct

and the result is : an exhale

this is the first time i did a painting on a bike/automotive

how to mixed the paint, sanding, spraying technique, etc just based on site experience

all the materials are common use for DIY

neither expensive/hi-tech paint materials nor complicated procedures to follow with

just basic painting procedures and common materials you’ll find within your area

except for the candy paint (uncommon color nowadays)

patience makes perfect & pay (more) attentions to the details

as you see in this blog, my finished/restored bike will not as ‘bright’ as you see if it not followed by detailing every single part (from obvious to hidden part) of the bike

by this blog, i would like to share my experience of how to restore a vintage/classic motorcycle (such as : painting, rendering a decal or maybe some useful tips from doing the job) which i’ll described it as simple as i can

last, i am just sharing (my experience), if it not works on you, i do (really) apologize, or at least you may learn from my mistake

thank you for visiting to my blog, and have a nice life

(so sorry for my bad english)

being underestimate is a good start to proved that we’re able to reverses the opinion

Epilogue

Other than the bike mentioned above, are awaiting 1973 Honda CB 100, 1976 Kawasaki G 7, 1977 Yamaha L 2 DX, 1967 Vespa VBC, 1977 Vespa small frame 90cc (to be restored), that can be seen on my flickr account at

http://www.flickr.com/photos/saka_matra

For the non japanese bike (vespa, condor, etc.), restoration manly on the painting and repairing the parts, due to the difficulty/lack/price of its parts. The procedures are remain the same.

1975 Honda CB 125 Old Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Project (Candy Ruby Red R4C), how to paint and rendering

property of & restored by saka matra

this is (my) first time of restoring a vintage motorcycle, and i am not pro !

(i don’t know neither spraying nor mixing a paint)

i meant : every body can do !

what we need is : a will !

and the rest we can learn while doing (believe me)

so, why don’t you start your own !

i have no knowledge, i’ll keep on learning

i have no skills, i’ll keep on trying

at least i still have curiosity

How to paint and rendering

Based on my experience (may or may not correct)

Step 1. Primary base paint

(starting from bare metal/plates)

1. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # observed the damages/defects

2. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 *

3. Repair the severe damage with putty

4. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible

5. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture)# as straightening/fill in the subtle defects

6. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible

7. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on a certain spots

8. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 320 - no. 600 * as thin and even as possible

9. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for coloring.

Step 2.a. for Solid paint

(starting from primary base paint and assuming the surface is already flat/even)

1. Apply base color e.g. blue/1st layer (thick mixture) #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

3. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # or putty (on the certain spots) as straightening/fill in the subtle defects

4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

5. Apply the blue color/2nd layer (rather dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects/is perfect

6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

7. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for finishing (jump to Step 4.b).

Step 2.b. for Candy paint

(starting from primary base paint and assuming the surface is already flat/even)

2.b.1. Light silver (as a basis for candy paint)

1. Apply the light silver/1st layer (thick mixture) #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

3. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # or putty as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on the certain spots (acceptable)

4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

5. Apply the light silver/2nd layer (rather dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects/is perfect

6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *

7. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection (if needed).

8. Ready for applying a candy paint

9. Assuming do rendering first before candy paint (jump to Step 3)

10. Cover up the finished decal, then (jump to Step 2.b.2), after that (jump to Step 4.a), finished

2.b.2. Candy paint (starting from light silver paint as basis for candy paint)

1. Apply a candy paint/1st layer (rather dilute mixture) #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000

3. Apply a candy paint/2nd layer (more dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects

4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000

5. Ready for final stage/finishing

6. Assuming there is no decal (jump to Step 4.b), finished

Step 3. Rendering the decal

(assuming starting from finish color e.g. candy paint and clear coat has not been applied)

1. Sanding the allocation area of the decal (black as a base of the white lines)

2. Form the outline of black decal. make sure the proportion and the size of the decal is precise ***

3. Apply an adhesive tape **** by follow the out side shape of the (black) decal

4. Cover up the fuel tank (excl. area to be painted) with non sticky materials (e.g. paper, plastic, etc.)

5. Apply the black color (rather dilute mixture) #

6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 * assuming there are no defects **

7. Form the outline of the white lines decal, make sure the proportion and size is correct **

8. Apply an adhesive tape **** by following the out side shape of the white lines

9. Apply the white color (rather dilute mixture) # by using a proper spray gun e.g. an airbrush

10. Repeated to its perfection (straight and smooth lines)

Step 4.a. Finishing glossy looks with certain (spot) polishing

(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)

(the decal should be covered before applying the last layer of candy paint)

(more difficult and complicated but likely to be implemented)

1. Apply a candy paint/3rd/final layer (more dilute mixture) #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 * and polishing (only) on the intersection of both layer

3. Finish

Step 4.b. Finishing glossy looks with clear coat and without polishing

(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)

(a lot more easier than Step 4.a)

1. Apply a clear coat/1st layer (rather dilute mixture) #

2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 *

3. Apply a clear coat/2nd layer (more dilute mixture) #

4. Finish

note :

Persistence sanding is the basic requirement to obtain good result

Impressed thin plates and “thin” sound when tapped is a must

* sandpaper density may vary and not necessarily the same as mentioned above

# mixture is depending on the needs. no definite ratio to be given as a reference

** unacceptable error, due to the character of candy paint. the thicker the layer, the darker the result

*** cannot be undo or reshape the decal

**** not too sticky, easily to bent/deflected, e.g. negative film tape, etc.

(my) Spraying technique

I am using small size spray gun (K3) which aim to facilitate the movement, also to ease the fatigue

and i prefer the one with air pressure regulator below the handle (easily to adjust the air pressure while in use).

1. Distance (approximate +/- 30 cm, may vary), depend on

a. mixture

b. air pressure, intense of air pressure for long distance, or in reverse

c. type of surface e.g. rounded, flat, wavy, wide, etc.

d. spraying angle, on which part spraying is intended e.g. corners/joints of the subframe, hidden surface, etc.

2. Air pressure (in scale of 1 − 100 %) : not more than 50 % of its capacity, depend on :

a. mixture

b. spraying angle

c. surface

3. Miscellaneous

a. Protect yourself /safety first, by using a mask to avoid a toxic gas, spray in an open room and use a fan if needed

b. Spraying should be steered clear of the finished area/spray forward

c. For a curved/circle/cylinder surface, air pressure should be regulated into medium (air) pressure,

25% up to 35% (quarter of 100% its capacity)

d. Start from the most difficult/hidden area (spotted area), and (the spray) outlet should be set into round shape/focused rather than overspread

e. Let the surface totally dry, then continue with the rest

f. Do sanding evenly (and do not avoid the hidden/difficult surface).

if there is a shiny (even small or spotted) area means the surface still uneven (these will resulted a wavy, porous looks). repeat the sanding ’till the shiny area were vanished.

g. Repeated to its perfection

h. To prevent the result of being soggy :

h.1. (thick mixture) primary base/paint : hardener : thinner = 100 : up to 20 : up to 30 (approximate)

h.2. Usage of Polyurethane material for primary base, paint, hardener or thinner is better (hard and durable). Some times, mixing of primary base with non PU thinner is allowed for fast dry as result

h.3. Do not spray while it rain, night, or in a dark room, due to polyurethane character of slow dry at room temperature (assuming painting in an open space without proper equipment/DIY)

h.4. Do not dry up direct to the sun light, a warm and windy room it’s sufficient (dry evenly)

h.5. Each layer have to be awaited ’till totally dry

That’s all folks,

and have a nice try

All the ‘story’ above based on my experience, may or may not correct

or at least you may learn from my mistake

see my other finished/on going restoration project :
1975 Honda CB 125 Old Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Project (Candy Ruby Red R4C)
1973 Honda CB 100 mk 1 (Candy Blue Green PB-2C-S)(on going restoration project)
1973 Honda CB 125 (candy blue green PB 2C S) vintage japanese motorcycle restoration project
1973 Honda CB 100 mk 1 Fuel Tank Rendering (Candy Blue Green PB-2C-S)
Honda Paint/Color Codes
1977 Vespa Special 90, PTS, small frame, scooter restoration project
1967 Vespa VBC 150 restoration project
1951 Condor A 580 vintage heritage classic motorcycle restoration project

1975 Honda CB 125 Old Motorbike Restoration Project (Candy Ruby Red R4C), how to paint and rendering

every single part were designed to its functions

so, follow the instruction from the dealer spare part list (breakdown pictures), which (easily) can be found on the web.property of & restored by saka matra

i have no knowledge, i’ll keep on learning
i have no skills, i’ll keep on trying
at least i still have curiosity

How to paint and rendering
Based on my experience (may or may not correct)

A. Primary base paint
(starting from bare metal/plates)

1. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # observed the damages/defects
2. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 *
3. Repair the severe damage with putty
4. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible
5. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture)# as straightening/fill in the subtle defects
6. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 240 - no. 320 * as thin and even as possible
7. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on a certain spots
8. Sanding, gradually with sandpaper e.g. no. 320 - no. 600 * as thin and even as possible
9. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for coloring.

B. Coloring light silver
(starting from primary base paint and assuming the surface is already flat/even)
(light silver as a basis for candy paint)

1. Apply the light silver/1st layer (thick mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
3. Apply a primary base paint/epoxy (thick mixture) # or putty as straightening/fill in the subtle defects on the certain spots (acceptable)
4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
5. Apply the light silver/2nd layer (rather dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects/is perfect
6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 *
7. Observe the result. Repeated to its perfection. Ready for applying a candy paint.

C. Coloring candy paint
(starting from light silver paint as basis for candy paint)

1. Apply a candy paint/1st layer (rather dilute mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000
3. Apply a candy paint/2nd layer (more dilute mixture) # assuming there are no defects
4. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000
5. Ready for final stage/finishing

D. Glossy looks with certain (spot) polishing
(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)
(the decal should be covered before applying the last layer of candy paint)
(more difficult and complicated but likely to be implemented)

1. Apply a candy paint/3rd/final layer (more dilute mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 * and polishing (only) on the intersection of both layer
3. Finish

E. Glossy looks with clear coat and without polishing
(starting from candy paint with the decal has been applied)
(a lot more easier than section C)

1. Apply a clear coat/1st layer (rather dilute mixture) #
2. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 1000 - no. 1500 *
3. Apply a clear coat/2nd layer (more dilute mixture) #
4. Finish

F. Rendering the decal
(starting from finish color e.g. candy paint and clear coat has not been applied)

1. Sanding the allocation area of the decal (black as a base of the white lines)
2. Form the outline of black decal. make sure the proportion and the size of the decal is precise ***
3. Apply an adhesive tape **** by follow the out side shape of the (black) decal
4. Cover up the fuel tank (excl. area to be painted) with non sticky materials (e.g. paper, plastic, etc.)
5. Apply the black color (rather dilute mixture) #
6. Sanding, gradually, slightly thin e.g. no. 800 - no. 1000 * assuming there are no defects **
7. Form the outline of the white lines decal, make sure the proportion and size is correct **
8. Apply an adhesive tape **** by following the out side shape of the white lines
9. Apply the white color (rather dilute mixture) # by using a proper spray gun e.g. an airbrush
10. Repeated to its perfection (straight and smooth lines)

note :
Persistence sanding is the basic requirement to obtain good result
Impressed thin plates and “thin” sound when tapped is a must

* sandpaper density may vary and not necessarily the same as mentioned above
# mixture is depending on the needs. no definite ratio to be given as a reference
** unacceptable error, due to the character of candy paint. the thicker the layer, the darker the result
*** cannot be undo or reshape the decal
**** not too sticky, easily to bent/deflected, e.g. negative film tape, etc.

G. (my) Spraying technique

I am using small size spray gun (K3) which aim to facilitate the movement, also to ease the fatigue
and i prefer the one with air pressure regulator below the handle (easily to adjust the air pressure while in use).

1. Distance (approximate +/- 30 cm, may vary), depend on
a. mixture
b. air pressure, intense of air pressure for long distance, or in reverse
c. type of surface e.g. rounded, flat, wavy, wide, etc.
d. spraying angle, on which part spraying is intended e.g. corners/joints of the subframe, hidden surface, etc.

2. Air pressure (in scale of 1 − 100 %) : not more than 50 % of its capacity, depend on :
a. mixture
b. spraying angle
c. surface

3. Miscellaneous
a. Protect yourself /safety first, by using a mask to avoid a toxic gas, spray in an open room and use a fan if needed
b. Spraying should be steered clear of the finished area/spray forward
c. For a curved/circle/cylinder surface, air pressure should be regulated into low - medium (air) pressure,
25% up to 35% (quarter of 100% its capacity)

d. Start from the most difficult/hidden area (spotted area), and (the spray) outlet should be set into round shape/focused rather than overspread
e. Let the surface totally dry, then continue with the rest
f. Do sanding evenly (and do not avoid the hidden/difficult surface).
if there is a shiny (even small or spotted) area means the surface still uneven (these will resulted a wavy, porous looks). repeat the sanding ’till the shiny area were vanished.
g. Repeated to its perfection
h. To prevent the result of being soggy :
h.1. (thick mixture) primary base/paint : hardener : thinner = 100 : up to 20 : up to 30 (approximate)
h.2. Usage of Polyurethane material for primary base, paint, hardener or thinner is better (hard and durable). Some times, mixing of primary base with non PU thinner is allowed for fast dry as result
h.3. Do not spray while it rain, night, or in a dark room, due to polyurethane character of slow dry at room temperature (assuming painting in an open space without proper equipment/DIY)
h.4. Do not dry up direct to the sun light, a warm and windy room it’s sufficient (dry evenly)
h.5. Each layer have to be awaited ’till totally dry

That’s all folks,
and have a nice try

All the ‘story’ above based on my experience, may or may not correct

or at least you may learn from my mistake

see my other finished/on going restoration project :
1975 Honda CB 125 Old Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Project (Candy Ruby Red R4C)
1973 Honda CB 100 mk 1 (Candy Blue Green PB-2C-S)(on going restoration project)
1973 Honda CB 125 (candy blue green PB 2C S) vintage japanese motorcycle restoration project
1973 Honda CB 100 mk 1 Fuel Tank Rendering (Candy Blue Green PB-2C-S)
Honda Paint/Color Codes
1977 Vespa Special 90, PTS, small frame, scooter restoration project
1967 Vespa VBC 150 restoration project
1951 Condor A 580 vintage heritage classic motorcycle restoration project

Old motorcycle 1975 Honda CB 125 (Candy Ruby Red R4C)

every single part were designed to its functions

so, follow the instruction from the dealer spare part list (breakdown pictures), which (easily) can be found on the web.property of & restored by saka matra

all engine parts are new (NOS) except the crankcase (R - L/identification numbers)

Old Japanese bike Honda CB 125 (I preferred Candy Ruby Red R4C rather than Candy Red R3C)

property of & restored by saka matra

detailing is the main concern of this project (this is what i called : art)

a good paint result will not take affects for the overall looks, if it not followed by detailing in every (single) small parts of the bike

1975 Honda CB 125 Old Japanese Motorbike

property of & restored by saka matra

every single part were designed to its functions

so, follow the instruction from the dealer spare part list (breakdown pictures), which (easily) can be found on the web.

1975 Honda CB 125 Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Project (Candy Ruby Red R4C)

property of & restored by saka matra

this is the ‘joyful’ section, putting together all the pieces then becoming a brand new bike ! (like fresh from the dealer) an exhale !

reminder :

before starting a project, it is better to have a guidance, such as dealer spare part list/breakdown pictures of the motorcycle (recommended !), pictures (photos, advert, etc), web browsing, etc.

this will ease the difficulties in the process of collecting the parts, restoring the body parts, assembling the bike, or even save the money !

make sure the parts are suitable to the concept, model, the year of production, the country destination, also the spare parts which available the most in the domestic market nowaday, etc.